Guide · Ocean County, NJ
How a retaining wall
is actually built.
The real sequence, in order, including the two steps that decide whether it stands in ten years — and the point where a weekend project becomes an engineering problem.

Before you dig: the stop rules
Two conditions turn this from a project into a permit.
The seven steps
Steps 3 and 5 are the ones that fail walls. Everything else is stacking.
Lay out and check the load
Mark the line, measure the true height from the bottom of the base to the top of the cap, and apply the stop rules above before anything else.
Dig the base trench
Below grade far enough to bury a full course, plus six inches or more for stone. Wider than the block, so the base extends behind and in front.
Build and compact the base
Dense-graded stone, compacted in lifts until it stops moving, leveled precisely. Every course above copies this one — including its mistakes.
Set the base course
Level every unit front-to-back and side-to-side. This course takes the longest and decides whether the finished wall reads straight from the street.
Drain behind the wall
Perforated pipe at the base, clean angular stone around it, geotextile between stone and soil, and an outlet that daylights. Skip this and the wall is on a timer.
Stack with batter, backfill as you go
Engage the lip or pins so each course leans back. Backfill with clean stone and compact behind every course as you rise, never all at once at the end.
Cap and grade above
Adhesive on the caps, then grade the soil above so water sheds away from the wall instead of into the backfill you just built.
Why sandy Ocean County soil changes the math
Coastal sand drains fast, which sounds like it helps a retaining wall — and it does, right up until a storm saturates everything at once. Sand also offers less bearing resistance than clay, so base trenches here often go deeper than a generic instruction sheet says. Near the lagoons in Brick, Bayville and Forked River, seasonal high water tables mean the drainage layer is not optional at any height.
If you are looking at an existing wall that is leaning, bulging, or has a step in the cap line, the wall is telling you the base or the drainage was skipped. Those are rebuilt, not patched — see how we build them.
Wall too tall, or already leaning?
Site visit, honest read on whether it needs a rebuild, then a written estimate within 48 hours.